RE: 2 minor spots loose on siding(filon type) questions.
Thanks for the reply. I used Stabond on the rv I repaired and worked well, but was in quart containers and the stuff is a pain to work with. Turned like gum in a matter of minutes, but when set in place it stuck. The spray I have is a special type for repairs also, can't remember the name, but the route you said is probably the way I will go and inject it. Good idea with the suction cup, seen them for about $5. I figured the area is small enough that patching the ports and trying to make them blend would make it look worse, so a refector like the side marker lights would look more stock. I dont want to put more then one there, so worst case I will have one area to touch up or figure out something like a decal to match the graphics on the side. The rest of the mh looks great and no faded areas, so trying to keep it looking good for the years to come.
2 minor spots loose on siding(filon type) questions.
Hi, I have a 99 Itasca Sunrise, on the drivers rear bedroom area a main steel support beam on the side looks like it may have shifted slightly, nothing horrible, but you can see a slight line all the way down and on the left of it there is a small area about 1 foot x 1 foot that the siding(filon type) the glue came loose. I was wondering if over time this may spread and would it be better to try to do a repair now. I worked with filon on my old rv and replaced the bunk area siding. What I was thinking in this area, is to use a high strength spray adhesive for siding with a nozzle to spray into the loose area, cut a small 1 inch x 1 inch hole, stick a small stick in there to slightly keep it open enough to spray the adhesive in, let it set for about a hour and pull the stick out, press it together and then seal up hole that was cut and stick a reflector over the hole to make repair invisible. There is a simular loose area near passenger side next to where awning is attached to frame and most likel that came loose from using awning or just bad job putting the adhesive on. Just looking for opinions if I should do this or just leave it alone. I already have the spray adhesive, had a bottle left over from previous rv. I also have a very large piece of filon also. Any suggestions are appreciated.
RE: Should Class A drivers require a special license?
I have been driving since I was 16, I am now 41. Never been in a accident ever, even a minor one and I have had some past cars that were really fast, have a camaro I drag race now. I recently went from a 21 foot class C to a 32.2 foot class A and was a huge difference, but after a few times out I now know how wide to take turns and tend to watch the lines more. My point is, I feel I am a very good driver in the upper range of good drivers and it was something I had to get used to before I even felt a little confident driving the larger class A. Larger motorhomes are a whole different ballgame when it comes to driving to be safe and not take out a lane of traffic. I guess people who are really bad drivers find out in the first couple days that they can't drive one when they wreck it and then give up on it. cause most drivers I have seen have been pretty good drivers.
RE: Class A MPG , a more simple solution?
I think synthetic is the way to go. I wouldn't start using it in a higher mileage motor though. Some things about synthetics can be confusing, I used mobile 1 in my 02 Camaro I used to drag race and have looked at many articles on synthetics. Lately I seen some articles that some claimed synthetic oils are not full synthetic, so I switched to Penzoil Platnium full synthetic and like it. There have been some tests that show hp increase with synthetics and longer intervals between oil changes. I change mine in the Camaro every 5,000 miles and that is with severe drving conditions. For a few extra $ I think it is worth it, even more so in a race type or motorhome application where there is more severe driving conditions. About mpg increase, not sure, never seen any for sure results, but if hp increases when using synthetics, then it would say the engine is getting less resistance, which in turn should produce better mpg. engine additives I wouldn't use, they can foam up at higher temps and cause more issues.
RE: Want console/cup holder(for over engine cover) 99 Itasca
Do you by any chance have some pictures? I was looking at the same one earlier today on the same site, was just worried it wasn't very wide...Do you have the hump at the back, if so, did you cut out the bottom of the console?
RE: Found product to remove leak stains on ceiling!
Another good scouring powder is Bar Helpers Friend(pretty sure thats the name), they have it at home depot also. Friend told me about it to clean the bottom of a shower etc, I used it on my stainless steel sinks and worked good. Plus it is cheap at about $1.90
RE: Want console/cup holder(for over engine cover) 99 Itasca
Thanks for all the replies. I like this site, people actually respond. I am a coffee drinking fool and going down the road, it's no fun when the coffee cup tips when I hit the brakes. Also, I have to bend so far to reach the cup..I like to keep my eyes on the road. I seen some that look like nightstands, but that is a little too big for me. I know modifying it isn't a big task, but I want it to look like it came with it. Some things on these rv's are well thought out, where other things are just stupid.
Want console/cup holder(for over engine cover) 99 Itasca
Hi, Looking for a beverage holder for over the engine cover..I have the oak one now and hate it, box is small and unless I use regular coffee cups the taller ones fall over. I called a parts place and they want $160 for the plastic one I want. If anyone has one for sale would be appreciated. If not, I may just make my own and cover it with vinyl to match the dash. Or any ideas that someone did I'd appreciate it. Is same one as the Winnabego Brave, I think 98-02 will work, may be other years too.
If this is wrong section to post this please let me know.
RE: Why lie about MPG?
I just bought a 99 Itasca Sunrise 32, on the p32 chassis and 37k miles(paid 21k), I have only took mileage with one partial tank since I only had it for a little over a month, but I averaged right at 10 mpg with the 454 FI. Everything is stock except the suspension parts(all steer safe). My v10 98 Class C Tioga I had used alot and for some long trips over the mountains..normal for that was 12mpg..but was a small 21 footer and I drove it faster.
RE: Would You Consider Downsizing In The Future?
I'm new to rv'ing in general. I bought a Fleetwood class c(no rear bed) v10 on E350 to see if I would use it and if I really liked to camp. Had a small area around bunk that hit a tree and I repaired it, but wanted something newer and cheap to test out, before I spent more. After going out several times in it I had to have something bigger. Was so cramped and beds felt horrible.
Went out and bought a 32 foot Itasca Sunrise and love it..took me a few days to get used to the turning and backing up..and watching the lanes on the highway, but overall very happy now and sleep better.
I do miss the excellent car like brakes on the class c and the 12+ mpg, but I take the new one a little slower and only lose about 2 mpg, well worth the confort.
I can see with age how much more difficult driving a big rig could be, I think if I was going to downsize for this reason my main objective would be to get the one that is not as wide(like the new dodge chassis ones). With me it's the width that is the main worry.
RE: Class A sissor jacks questions..
Ya, I would get a socket to do it. A friend suggested a 18 volt drill(which I already have). Harbor Freight has the 5,000 pound ones on their website for $20, but I may go the 7,500 pounds to be safe. Worth the few extra dollars to me to have a little extra capacity. found the 7,500 pound ones at gorvx.net
I have the autopark system on mine, so it is solid when the autopark kicks in and since the wheels will be on the ground, I would hope would be very little movement if some tension is off the springs.
RE: Found product to remove leak stains on ceiling!
Well says in description zep, but bottle name is different on that one. The one I have is blue and says Zep Oxy Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner.
Class A sissor jacks questions..
Have a 99 Itasca sunrise 32.2 feet, weight 17,000 area. Has no stabilzer jacks and I want to at least keep rocking to a minimum and be able to not sleep at a angle. Seen a rv parts site that sold a 4 pack of 7,500 pound each sissor jacks(choice of 24 or 30 inch) 30 inch is like $20 more total, said can be welded or bolted on. What do you all think of something like this. I know I cant jack them all the way up, but a few inches to make it more comfortable, whats your opinions? Price is $109 for 4 30 inch and like $89 for 4 24 inch ones + shipping.
Found product to remove leak stains on ceiling!
I recently bought a Itasca class A 99, 32.2 foot. Could see brown stains around sunroof in bathroom and by front door. I'm kinda picky and was going to use the carpet cleaner put had some fears I would set the stain in and never get it out. I was at home depot and bought a product Zep Oxy carpet and fabric cleaner. States it needs no scrubbing, stains just vanish. I thought for $4.49 I could try it. I sprayed a steady stream overlapping the areas(which were about 6 inches wide by over 2 feet. Stain turned darker and I was saying to myself, I just made it worse. Being a little mad I went into the house and brought out my carpet cleaner. Looked up and stain was gone. I was a happy camper lol I let it dry for a couple days and you can see a faint color area around edge that it didn't remove the stain all the way so will need to go over it one more time. It looks so good now I probably should just leave it alone, but it works is what matters. It must contain some type of hydrogen peroxide since it
turned my finger white like hydrogen peroxide does when it gets into a cut. Scrubbing the area with warm water and blotting it dry makes it work better. I did that in another area with great results.
After I did that I went out and bought a few more bottles of it. Even used it in the carpet cleaner. I sprayed the fabric on the bottom of the captains chairs that was dirty(looked like engine grease etc) use a cloth the rub it in and then my carpet cleaner to throw clean water on it and suck it up and it came clean like new. Even a rv shop that flushed my brakes yesterday, called me to ask what it was again to buy some, I showed them the area I cleaned and they were impressed on how it looked. Total time to do the entire interior of my 32 footer was less than 2 hours.
Also read somewhere that hydrogen peroxide and some baking soda works too, but I like the Zep stuff, so will use that.
RE: Steering Stabilizers
I am new to the class A's, had a smaller 98 v10 fleetwood class C and sold it last month the get a class A. Currently have a 99 Itasca Sunrise 32.2 foot with the wider rear axle on the p32 chassis. Previous owner put steer safe everything on the rig. Even the mounts and has Bilstiens on steering stabilzers and on the reat of the rig and springs are made by steer safe. Rides really nice down the road and is easy to keep straight, with the springs bounce feels good and doesn't "bottom out" the suspension on a big dip. Glad they put all that on before I bought it, must have cost around 4k+ for it all to be done and looks to be really new(no dirt or paint even scratched). Wind from a semi truck passing can cause it to move alot, but overall works great. I can control it much easier than my class C which also had a steering stabilzer on it and was only 21 feet. I would say the springs probably made as much of a difference as the stabilizer.
